La Termita, San Agustinillo: "The Best Pizza in Mexico"
Perfect For: Eating With Your Toes In The Sand.
The "Best Pizza" quote is not from Frida Kahlo or any other historically relevant or currently habituating human. It's just what I imagine everyone says after eating at La Termita.
When the sun sets on your right and the moon rises over the hills on your left and the beer is cold, you could probably serve bowls of puppy chow and be alright. That recipe, unfortunately, is not super unusual. The best restaurants in these beach side towns are ordinarily found in the winding offshore side streets. But La Termita bucks the trend.
A large brick oven is kept at about 700 degrees using some kind of wood called huizache. This sinewy strong man stands under the thatched roof pizza hut (coudln’t resist) forming the dough with a physical prodding motion. And the finished product is shockingly good.
All my other Central/South American pizza experiences have involved me feeling like I ate a bush of oregano. Not a feeling I particularly enjoyed. La Termita pumps the proverbial brakes on the oregano and impressed me with a light and crunchy crust.
(Caution: I am a pizza snob. But I'm the (somewhat) likable kind of pizza snob who will enjoy a Totinos pizza and then talk your ear off about some artisan pizza nonsense. I'm not proud of this. But I ain't apologizing either.)
This is their most popular pie. It comes with bacon, mushroom and onions. A new kind of Holy Trinity. It was delicious. The use of oregano was measured. The mozzarella was quality and they mixed in some Roquefort cheese. Before we ordered we asked how big it was and the waiter made the shape of a football in the air with his hands. So we also got the...
Our waiter, who grew up in this little town of 300 locals, said that this was his favorite pie. (He also said that he likes to walk with his girlfriend on the beach during full moons like the huge golden coin of a moon that we had on this night.) The Tripizza comes with pepperoni and jalapeño. They slice the jalapeño and place it on the pizza pretty late in the game, essentially leaving it raw with full spiciness intact. Which I loved. Because I like for all my food and drink to hurt a little bit. Here's a terrible picture:
We ordered a third pizza because I am a bad person who does terrible things. No two people should order 3 large pizzas. We didn't eat it all. But I ate as much as I could. It was my expectation that this was going to be a "white pizza." Though, in hindsight, I'm not sure why. The four cheeses are Mozzarella, Roquefort, Manchego and I'm not sure. This was good but in that straight forward kind of way that you'll eat the hell out of but also kind of wish you didn't order.
Whoops! I'm terrible at remembering to take pictures. Actually. That's not true. I always remember. But it makes me feel shame to be the guy taking pictures of his food. Sometimes I just can't get myself to do it. I'll try to be better (or worse) moving forward.
The calzones look special. I'll try one some day.